M.A.C held its seasonal trends for the beauty press this week and the theme was “All or Nothing” – “All” was a total feast for the eyes, while “Nothing” was a more pared-back beauty. We talk to Senior Artist at M.A.C Cosmetics, Carol Mackie about the key trends for SS16.
Trend #1: Crayon
Pigment came straight from a child’s colouring box this season with a “Crayola –like spectrum of pigments” says Carol Mackie. “It is a natural beauty done in an elevated, playful and childlike way.” Colour – and sometimes sparkling adornments – became an accessory for the face. From the sporty, tribal models at Missoni to the paint-splotched eyes at Issey Miyake, the devil was in the eye-catching detail.
Trend #2: Lustre
“This look is all about adding washes of colour to the face,” says Mackie. And it was everywhere this season with light and bright complexions floating down the runways of Ann Demeulemeester, Etro, Vivienne Westwood Red Label , Zac Posen and Proenza Shouler. M.A.C Marine Bright Softening Lotion and M.A.C Prep and Prime Fix+ were “used in every show,” says Mackie, while M.A.C Mineralize Skinfinish Lightscapade was a favourite for its “soft and gentle” finish.
Trend #3: Aquatic eyes
Bold Asiatic blues were the colour of the season with lids showcasing a distinctly aquatic feel. Models at Missoni and Monique Lhuillier in New York sported slashes of eye-catching blue across the lids, while at Jonathan Saunders in London, the look was a softer “worn-in blue” says Mackie.
Trend #4 Broken Doll
“We have to stop thinking about lashes all going in the one direction,” says Mackie of the doll-like look that was all about asymmetrical playfulness. This “deconstructed look on the eyes” was seen at Marni as well as Brit brands DAKS, Mary Katrantzou and Thomas Tait. At once beautiful and defiantly against all the makeup rules they teach at college, Mackie says makeup artists enlisted lashings of M.A.C Upward Lash Mascara and boxes of false lashes to achieve the haphazard lash look backstage. “What makes this look is the skin – the skin is matte down the t-zone,” says Mackie.
Trend # 5 Raw Defined
It’s not about being obviously tanned this season but there was still a push for a kiss of sun at Carven, Carolina Herrera, Alberta Ferretti and Barbara Casasola in London. “It’s all about the liquid tan – a wash of colour on the face,” says Mackie. With its warn in, slightly messed-up feel, this trend is very much coming from the street. The idea behind this trend is to elevate models to “a better version of themselves,” says Mackie. Subtle yet achingly cool, Mackie says there were times when she had a hard time working out if models had their makeup done or not. “As makeup artists, we want to keep applying makeup because we can, but this look is about celebrating imperfections,” says Mackie.
Trend #6: Hot Cherry Lips
Bright red lips in themselves are nothing new, but this season lips were more youthful and easy-going than their glamourous predecessors. Some were so matte they were almost chalky (think Desigual and Giles) while some were as glossy as a toffee apples (cue the sepia-toned version of the red pout at Kenzo). The key to nailing this look successfully is to keep the skin fresh and pristinely pared back. Want some real-life inspiration with pure class? Look to the stunning lips at Oscar De La Renta, which made the red lip trend feel “fresh, clean and beautiful,” (says makeup artist Diane Kendal) all over again.
Makeup artists have your say: What is your favourite trend of the season?