Omniderm National Training Manager & Skincare Expert, Sue Dann, is not afraid to talk about the state of our collective skin. We talk about her skincare philosophy, (which flies in the face of many other skincare brands on the market), how dehydration is the biggest skin issue going, and how to fix skin imbalances.
Dr Spiller works on a different philosophy from most other skincare brands. Can you tell us about this?
“Our philosophy is to work with our skin rather than against it,” says Sue Dann, skincare expert and head educator at Omniderm. “Dr. Horst Spiller’s aim was to imitate the conditions found on young, healthy skin as closely as possible. His careful study of the skin’s structure and functions enabled him to develop creams that mimic the skin’s natural acid mantle.”
What do you find are the most common skin issues coming through your doors?
“The biggest single issue today is a lack of hydration in the skin,” says Dann. “It is the source of many problems. Dehydration of the skin is caused by a failure of the acid mantle, the skin’s natural protection. As a result the skin is vulnerable to environmental aggressors. The skin is irritated and responds with inflammation. This is often observed as diffused redness.”
What does moisture loss translate to in the skin?
“A lack of moisture in the epidermis impairs its functions,” says Dann. “A good example is desquamation. New cells produced in the basal layer are firmly connected with protein structures called desmosomes. As the cell migrates through the epidermis the desmosomes are slowly degraded (the technical term is ‘lysed’) by enzymes. By the time the cell reaches the surface of the skin, the desmosomes will have been cut completely; the cell sloughs off naturally. The enzymes lysing the desmosomes require moisture to be able to perform their function. In an environment of dehydrated skin, the enzymes cannot complete their task properly. As a result the desmosomes are not cut; corneocytes will not desquamate naturally. The skin will have a dull, lifeless and thickened appearance. These symptoms are then treated with harsh ingredients that artificially perform the function the enzymes were unable to.”
What is the biggest cause of skin imbalance?
“Usually skin imbalance is caused by what we do to it,” says Dann. “It could be a cleansing product that strips the skin of its natural protective oils or causes it to shift from its natural acidic pH into an alkaline state. Or it could be a skin care product containing harsh or aggressive ingredients that disturb the skin’s delicate balance. It is now known that daily application of acid containing skin care will leave the skin in a constant state of micro-inflammation (as researched by Nicholas Perricone MD). Chronic inflammation will lead to the formation of self-destruct enzymes that destroy collagen and elastin fibres as well as hyaluronic acid.”
If skin just doesn’t seem to be functioning properly, what do you as a skincare expert look at first?
“I go back to basics. Our skin, just like our body, will always strive for homeostasis,” says Dann. “We have observed best results with skin care products that are formulated to support the skin, to provide or create an environment where the skin can quickly return to homeostasis. Our skin is very resilient. It is also in a constant state of turnover and renewal. Changing to a supportive skin care regime can have dramatic results in a very short period of time.”
What is the biggest cause of skin imbalance?
“Usually skin imbalance is caused by what we do to it,” says Dann. “It could be a cleansing product that strips the skin of its natural protective oils or causes it to shift from its natural acidic pH into an alkaline state. Or it could be a skin care product containing harsh or aggressive ingredients that disturb the skin’s delicate balance. It is now known that daily application of acid containing skin care will leave the skin in a constant state of micro-inflammation (as researched by Nicholas Perricone MD). Chronic inflammation will lead to the formation of self-destruct enzymes that destroy collagen and elastin fibres as well as hyaluronic acid.”
If skin just doesn’t seem to be functioning properly, what do you as a skincare expert look at first?
“I go back to basics. Our skin, just like our body, will always strive for homeostasis,” says Dann. “We have observed best results with skin care products that are formulated to support the skin, to provide or create an environment where the skin can quickly return to homeostasis. Our skin is very resilient. It is also in a constant state of turnover and renewal. Changing to a supportive skin care regime can have dramatic results in a very short period of time.”
You have designed a new piece of technology, OmniWaveASM. Can you tell us about this?
“After listening to salon owners and clients over the last few years, we felt there was a gap in the industry for an alternative to aggressive, inflammatory procedures that are widely used as corrective therapies,” says Dann. “Omniderm studied a variety of modalities that were originally developed for medical applications and were then adapted for cosmetic use. After much research, we combined the following into one system: micro current and EMS (electronic muscle stimulation), LED, RF (radio frequency), ultrasound and electroporation. Every modality is gentle on your skin yet designed for maximum effectiveness, with visible results after just one treatment.”
Omniderm distributes Dr. Spiller Biomimetic Skincare, OmniWave®ASM and Alex Cosmetics and Herbal Aktiv Peel. To get in touch, contact Omniderm on 1300 301 007.