Nina Richards looks at the emerging customer – clients in their twenties, and discusses some of their most common skincare concerns and the recommended solutions.
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If a twenty-something walked into your salon and asked you for a facial rejuvenation treatment would you go ahead and perform it? If yes, then you might question your motivations as you could be putting financial gain ahead of best practice. If not asked directly for advice by a client, many beauty therapists make the mistake of not giving it, even when it’s beneficial. When it comes to beauty, people in their twenties are often misguided and influenced by friends and those in the media; just because their mum benefited from an enzyme peel or a favourite celebrity has been raving about Botox, it doesn’t mean it’s necessarily appropriate for them.
One of the most important things to do when a new client walks into your salon requesting a treatment is to have them fill out a detailed consultation form. This will give you the background information you require to determine their skin’s condition, type and needs.
These details help you decide which treatment is most appropriate for that individual. Post-treatment, it is important to recommend the relevant home care products. Ideally facial treatments should be scheduled every four weeks, in sync with the skin’s natural cycle of renewal. If they have enjoyed your treatments and felt the benefits, they are likely to rebook. “The therapist is responsible for tailoring the solution to the age of the client while delivering on their expectations,” said Nicola Gleeson, general manager, Thalgo Australia.
Whether or not the client decides to come back to your salon will also be influenced by their faith in your abilities. Taking the time to advise a new client builds trust and respect. Leslie Baumann MD, Author of The Skin Type Solution, said of clients in their twenties: “The twenties are a crucial time to prevent ageing. Most people in their twenties do not yet think about skin ageing. An important thing young clients need to be reminded of is the damaging effects of the sun. Using a moisturiser with at least an SPF 15 every day is crucial; studies have shown that even if you only used an SPF of 5, the lifetime amount of sun damage would be much less.”
Dr Geoffrey Heber of Ultraceuticals skincare recommends products containing vitamins C and E for clients in their twenties: “Aside from wearing a broad spectrum SPF everyday, vitamins C and E in the skin extinguish damaging free radicals that result from UV radiation but which are depleted by the radiation. After only a few minutes of UV exposure, enzymes in the skin are released and break down the collagen and elastin supporting structure of the skin; this is called micro-scarring. Vitamin A as pure retinol has been shown to inhibit the collagen and elastin degrading enzymes released by UV exposure.”
Although vitamin A can work very well as an anti-ageing product on many skin types, a skin consultation is important to determine whether or not it would be suitable for your client’s skin.
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Many people regularly change skincare brands or treatment programs because they are not getting the results they want from their existing products or to keep up with trends. Since clients in their twenties shouldn’t have much visible ageing, it is hard for them to see results following certain treatments; long-term benefits should be sought. “Often a course of treatment or the use of the complete home care program is required to provide a solution to a particular skin condition. Chopping and changing through a prescribed program is not recommended”, said Gleeson.
If a young client presents with red, flaky, dehydrated and sensitised skin it is likely that this is a result of using too many different or unsuitable products. You should encourage them to refine their skincare and use gentle products. “Gentle, supportive skin care containing biomimetic (skin-identical) ingredients which quickly re-establish the stratum corneum barrier allows the skin to regain its normal healthy balance,” states Sue Dann, National Sales and Training Manager of Omniderm skincare.
Not only for mature skins, collagen should be recommended for sensitised and young skin too, since it binds water very effectively and can keep the skin well hydrated for many hours. Collagen has also been found to have a calming effect on the skin and is tolerated by all skin types. It can also diffuse redness making it ideal for stressed skin.
Premature ageing and dull-looking skin is caused by dehydration. Corrective treatments of any kind (chemical peels, IPL or laser) are traumatic to the skin and can cause dehydration. Constant inflammation of the skin can also lead to premature ageing which the young client may not be aware of. Such treatments should be offered as a last resort for young skin, with the exception often being clients who suffer with acne.
The main cause in most cases of acne is a malfunction of the skin that causes the sebaceous glands to be blocked. Sebum cannot escape to the skin surface; it accumulates in the gland. If conditions are right this can lead to papules and pustules, and eventually to full-blown acne. If you have a young client with acne you will need to look to long term solutions to help them and lower their expectations should they think you can provide an overnight solution.
Those with oily or acne prone skin also need hydration and TLC. A common mistake those prone to acne make is to strip their skin with matifying acids. Stripping the skin of its natural oils will result in moisture loss and damage the acid mantle; furthermore, it spurs the skin to react by producing more sebum thus creating a vicious cycle.
Dr Baumman agrees that using acids for acne treatment can be counterproductive and stresses another danger, “There is no reason for someone in their twenties to be using glycolic or salicylic acids. These thin the top protective layer of the skin. Furthermore, when twenty year olds neglect to wear SPF having desensitised and weakened their skin with acids, it will only lead to damage and premature ageing.”
“The solution often comes as a shock to young people suffering with acne”, adds Dann. “Our beauty therapists would suggest cleansing the skin using a gentle cleanser to remove excess oil without stripping the skin and to keep the acid mantle intact. This is followed by a light oil-based cream designed to slow TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss) and keep the skin hydrated. With the cause of excess oil production (dehydration) removed, the skin’s output of sebum will normalise and oily skin will balance to normal skin.”
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Acnes sufferers may be wary of using hydrating or oil-based creams, but once they understand the theory and have had the opportunity to try for themselves, you will be able to convert them.
As with all new clients, recommend a complete skincare regime to your younger clients. Tailor your skincare recommendations to their needs and offer samples if they are unable to buy the products at the time; perhaps you can offer an incentive on a certain number of products purchased. Often younger clients don’t have the budget to spend hundreds of dollars on skincare even though investing in their skin is the only way to overcome long-term problems and concerns such as dehydration. Use real-life examples to convince them: “Whilst the budget is important”, comments Dann, “if you have a cream that costs, say, $120 for 50ml and lasts for four months, the cost of the cream works out as $1 per day. Now if this cream does a superior job at maintaining the skin it will be better value than a product that costs a fraction of the price but doesn’t deliver the same benefits.”
Get back to basics and recommend the three most important products in your range. Everyone should use a gentle cleanser to remove makeup and dirt without stripping the skin. Remind young clients of the importance of removing makeup prior to going to bed to prevent breakouts and, since the skin regenerates at night. Exfoliation, twice weekly, will remove dead skin cells that can cause dull and sallow skin. Finally, the right moisturiser will ensure their skin stays well hydrated and supple with a radiant appearance. Recommend products on a client-by-client basis but don’t scare a new client into purchasing every product in your range; serums, eye creams and treatments are something you can introduce on their next visit.
Remember; if you give your young client the best advice you can, yet they cannot accept the truth that a treatment or product isn’t suitable for them, and you lose their custom in the process, then at least your conscience will be clear even if their skin isn’t. It is also likely that once they’ve walked away and had a chance to think about what you’ve said they’ll appreciate your honesty and decide to frequent your salon again in the future.