Dermal therapist, Kelly Christie (aka SkinQueen) isn’t quite sold.
Skin Therapists are all too familiar with the flow-on effects of clients engaging in social media beauty trends. We know, because we’re treating them! The trouble with clients self-prescribing their skincare regimens is that doing so can often lead to more sensitised skins.
I don’t know about you, but if a client leaves my salon and they are a bit red from a treatment, I find myself panicking a little and insist they leave with a sample pot of post-care and printed post-care instructions. I set a reminder in my calendar for the following morning to check in, to see how their skin is going.
When we live at a time where the likes of TikTok, Instagram and YouTube serve us so much information on skincare and at-home treatments, now more than ever are sensitive skins on the rise. At the time this magazine went to print, #glassskin was listed in the captions of over one million Instagram posts and 350,000 TikTok videos. And the trend doesn’t seem to be slowing down any time soon *cue eyeroll*. The in-demand look – which mimics a pristine, blemish-free complexion and uber-glassy finish – is one such trend setting the rate of skin sensitivities up the richter scale.
I’ve seen the glass skin trend rise in the time I’ve moved from my last clinic role, to having last opened my own space, The Facial Bar. Today, I see every one-in- two clients list ‘sensitive skin’ on their consultation forms. The culprits? At-home dermaplaning, excessive exfoliation, and self-prescribing products – largely in the name of achieving their very own take on glass skin.
In a salon setting, this popular look is typically achieved through a combination of services, including professional dermaplaning, a chemical peel or skin needling, LED or a mask, and a lick of oil. A therapist then places the client under a ring light to capture the right level of ‘gleen’. What makes the majority of these photographs and videos so appealing is that young girls with already clear, healthy-looking skin are featured.
Ultimately, this course of treatment is not always suitable for the client in question. Perhaps they’re experiencing barrier impairment or active acne. Performing a glass skin facial would likely only cause more irritation, reaction and sensitivity; not to mention the trust between that client and the therapists would be shot.
I tend to take a hybrid, corneotherapeutic approach to treating the skin. To me, dermaplaning is over-performed, and doesn’t really make sense. When skin is hydrated, it’s going to naturally exfoliate itself using stratum corneum chymotryptic enzymes (or SCCE). By dermaplaning the stratum corneum off, you’d be interrupting the skin’s natural cell turnover, leading to sensitive skin.
It’s easy to get excited at the potential of a new treatment that everyone is talking about. You’ll think, if you bring that treatment into your salon, everyone will want to book in for it. Doing this will more than likely attract a lot of one-off clients, rather than people serious about their skin health. Interestingly, an influx of trainers are now teaching the viral glass skin facial method to therapists with tuition fees as high as $1200 a pop – wild!
Instead, I recommend therapists try this:
- Focus on hydration rather than constant exfoliation
Believe it or not, the skin knows how to exfoliate itself and will do so when there is adequate hydration in the stratum corneum, which makes for soft and supple skin.
- Repair before you refine
It’s always a process when we place a client on a treatment plan at The Facial Bar. We want to focus on repairing the barrier function and reducing sensitivity first, which can take a few treatments. That way, you’ll achieve more sustainable results and essentially train the skin to function in the way it’s supposed to.
- Integrate nourishing treatments
Use gentle, hydrating treatments like probiotic masks, oxygenation masks, and LED therapy instead of harsh exfoliation.
By following this protocol in our practice, we are achieving more of a ‘glazed donut’ look – think hydrated, plump, glowing skin without the irritation, without the redness, and without those potential next day reactions. Plus, it’s perfect for all skin types including those with acne, rosacea, that are sensitised or aged. The result is a healthier microbiome on which we can prepare for more advanced treatments. We’ll also have built trust with our clients and achieved sustainable results and business without compromising skin health.
At the end of the day, trends are exactly that – trends. Trends come and go, but a truly valuable salon offering is one that prioritises long-term skin health.
Interview: Hannah Gay | Photography: iStock
This article originally appeared in the Spring 2024 print issue of Professional Beauty magazine. Read it here.
Read the current issue of our digital magazine here:
- For more news and updates, subscribe to our weekly newsletter
- Follow us on Instagram
- Like us on Facebook
- Join Australia’s largest network of beauty industry professionals on LinkedIn
- Subscribe to our print magazine
Have an idea for a story or want to see a topic covered on our site and in our pages? Get in touch at info@professionalbeauty.com.au.