Spring is here, and with it an increase in temperature, humidity, sun exposure and allergens. Matoyla Kollaras, managing director of Skin Factors, reveals how to prepare your clients for the months ahead.
A new season, can cause changes to the skin’s overall health and appearance. Furthermore, it is also a more challenging time for skin that is atopic, allergenic, sensitive and sensitised, and these environmental changes can significantly affect those who have common skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, acne or rosacea. As we leave behind dry, dull, lacklustre, itchy winter skin, and layers of balms and oils, here is a checklist to help protect your clients in spring and the effects of the hotter summer months.
PREPARE & PROTECT
- SPRING CLEAN – Exfoliate and renew
“Just like you clean up your winter wardrobe, clean up your winter skin,” says Doris Day, MD, a dermatologist based in New York City and clinical associate professor of dermatology at NYU Langone Medical Center. “Bring out its brightness by exfoliating a little more in the spring.” During winter, when skin is drier and often more sensitive, it is best to exfoliate once per week. But as we move into Spring, I can recommend exfoliation twice per week (in most cases). This will help to remove older layers of skin and product, thus helping topical treatments and water-based products be better absorbed by skin. Most skin types can increase exfoliation to twice a week. If you or your client notices dryness, redness, or sensitivity, decrease how often your client exfoliates or suggest another exfoliator. Most importantly, do not treat with or recommend exfoliators that will create sun sensitivity and thus potentially cause inflammation or skin disorders such as hyperpigmentation.
Gommage – is a type of exfoliator made without abrasive ingredients, thus making it a little less irritating. And although it is suitable for most skin types and conditions, it’s more compatible with sensitive skin, and the perfect post-winter exfoliator.
Detox Exfoliant Masks – assist the removal of dead skin cells from the surface, while also promoting detoxification below the skin’s surface and in the lymphatic system. These products are also recommended for skin conditions such as psoriasis, acne and rosacea. But all skin can do with a good detoxification. Look for products with ingredients such as herbal exfoliants and Dead Sea mud.
TIP: I recommend a detox mask once per week plus exfoliator of choice once per week.
Enzymatic – Exfoliation with the use of enzymes is generally achieved with a specific family of enzymes called proteases, or protein degrading enzymes. When formulated with a lower or acidic pH, these cellular enzymes break down the protein bonds that cause inter-corneocyte cohesion and promote the natural shedding of dead skin cells. Protease enzymes can be derived from bacteria, fungi, animals, plants, fruits and vegetables. Some of the more commonly used enzymes in skin care formulations include bromelain (pineapple extract), papain (papaya extract), ficin (fig extract), and actinidin (kiwi, pineapple, mango, banana and papaya extracts).
Chemical/Acid peels – formulated with hydroxy acids, chemical peels deliver enhanced exfoliation solution by effectively breaking down the protein bonds of corneocytes and achieving better levels of peel penetration and exfoliation of the stratum corneum. However, acid peels must be used with caution as the weather warms up. Aggressive peels should be avoided, instead opt for light, in-clinic or home-care glycolic peels. BHA (beta hydroxy/salicylic acid) peels are excellent choice for acne breakout which Spring’s warmer weather can trigger or exacerbate.
- LIGHTEN THE LOAD
Clients should be encouraged to go through their cosmetics, makeup, and sunscreens, and toss-out the things that have been around a little too long. That includes washing or throwing out makeup brushes.
This is the time to also switch to lighter and more hydrating products. Moisturiser is crucial to any skincare routine, but using heavy creams in the spring can actually cause annoying breakouts. We recommend that your clients switch from very heavy, nourishing and oil-based products to lighter formulations, like a hydrating serum. Heavy creams have lipids that stick to the skin and repair your dry winter skin barrier. When that skin barrier is already healthy, however, the extra lipids to the skin can cause clogged pores and pimples. Look for serum, lotions or hydrating gels rather than creams. Keep skin well-hydrated.
TIP: If clients still need to use oils, we recommend jojoba or seabuckthorn-based creams and serums – evening application over a hydrating serum or light night cream.
- SMARTER SUN PROTECTION
After a month spent rugged up and indoors, slathering on sun protection is a must once temps start to rise. Correction, more diligent sun protection is a must and that includes application even when it is cloudy. “Springtime is actually a high-risk time for sunburn and sun damage,” says dermatologist Christopher O’Connell. “Although the weather is warmer, it’s still so mild you might not feel how strong the sun is. Apply sunscreen every morning and reapply it again before any outdoor activity during the day.”
Ensure that sun-care products or moisturisers and makeup offer BROAD-SPECTRUM, with physical sunscreens included such as ZINC OXIDE or TITANIUM DIOXIDE
However, for optimum protection, I highly recommend that you look for new generation sunscreen products. These products include a broad-spectrum UV filter with strong performance over the entire UV range, plus infrared protection. Furthermore, these products tend to also exhibit strong anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory activity which together with UV filters, create a second line of defence with the skin similar to a ‘double barrier’ against present and future damage associated with daily UV and free radical exposure, two players in skin premature ageing and disease.
Ingredients such as:
Niacinamide
Vitamin C
Red Algae
Prickly Pear
Myrrh
Dunaliela Salina algae
Sunflower oil
Seabuckthorn
Tinoguard TL
- ACNE
Warmer weather and high humidity can trigger the skin to sweat and also produce more oil. Sweat and oil tends to clog pores leading to higher incidence of acne breakouts, and therefore the need for clients to modify their skin care.
Clients should avoid using products that contain oil or alcohol
Clients should avoid cleansing products that dry out their skin – this also includes wipes
Cleanse twice daily
Keep skin well hydrated to avoid excessive production of oil
Avoid fast, fatty and sugary foods. Choose a diet high in EFAs, zinc, fruit, vegetables, and probiotics
TIPS
There are many ways to help clients prepare their skin for the warmer months, both topically and holistically. Nothing is worse for skin than a long, cold winter, low humidity in conjunction with heat and hot air. Knees, elbows, heels and toes can suffer from a winter of what we don’t see, we neglect.
Here are some final tips on how to awaken skin from its winter hibernation and get it ready for Spring and Summer – your clients will thank you for it:
Exfoliate and moisturise head to toe
Invest in a good foot cream and apply before bed
Add an eye cream
Large protective sunglasses
Get moving – something as simple as a daily brisk walk
Eat more fruit and vegetables
Keep well hydrated
Change your pillowcase more often
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