Fiona Tuck debunks the vitamin C myth and gets down to business with this popular skincare ingredient.
With so much hype about new ingredients and miracle products, is the humble vitamin C being overlooked? Can it really do wonders for our skin or is it just another skincare myth?
Free radicals
Produced in normal amounts, free-radicals are chemical compounds made by the body during the metabolism of food, air exposure or sunlight to not only rid the body of harmful toxins but maintain the immune system, metabolism and collagen production. However when over-produced, these unpaired oxygen electrons create destruction, killing healthy cells and damaging DNA and surrounding tissue. The atoms try to correct this imbalance by either giving an electron to another molecule, or by taking one from another molecule, thus creating a never ending game of cellular musical chairs.
Compare this process to a cut apple left sitting on a bench – the apple goes brown, or even the rust that slowly destroys a shiny piece of iron. This is happening to our skin on a daily basis!
Skins affected by excessive free-radical damage display wrinkles, pigmentation, decreased elasticity and firmness. Not only are there internal alterations to the cellular membrane affecting collagen production, but the immune fighting ability of the Langerhans cells are greatly diminished creating a tired, reactive and unbalanced complexion.
It has been claimed that some of the highest creators of free-radicals in the human body are sun damage and smoking. Just 1 cigarette will deplete your daily RDA of vitamin C. Stress, pollution and drugs singularly or in combination are equally destructive, with barbequed, fried or grilled food playing a surprisingly damaging role. It’s not all doom and gloom, whilst the damage cannot be avoided, it can be minimized.
L-Ascorbic acid
L-Ascorbic Acid, commonly referred to as Vitamin C, is recognised for its ability to protect against oxidative damage. It’s known to have photo protective effects on the skin and has shown to decrease UVB induced erythema i.e. sunburns. It is essential for the synthesis of collagen which in turn significantly improves skin texture, fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity and decrease sallowness. It is known to have anti-inflammatory properties by acting as an antihistamine thus can be used to treat a variety of inflammatory skin conditions.
As an important factor in collagen production, vitamin C is useful in wound healing of all types. From cuts, burns and recovery from surgical wounds, vitamin C helps the skin to heal better.
Vitamin C significantly improves skin clarity and has skin brightening properties and is used in the treatment and maintenance of several pigmentation disorders such as Melasma, post inflammatory hyper pigmentation and general prevention of unwanted discoloration.
It’s important to fully understand the importance of Vitamin C to be able to properly evaluate products and product stability. Though often unstable in its many forms and derivatives, it is evident that Vitamin C has a synergistic effect with Vitamin E, working hand in hand by protecting and repairing free-radical attacked Vitamin E antioxidants, enabling more efficient scavenging. Vitamin C however used singularly in a formulation often has its abilities questioned because of its reaction and de-generation with water. Ascorbic or L-Ascorbic Acid can fast turn into a pro-oxidant or free radical within 3-4 hours when mixed in a water based serum or solution causing the formulation to eventually turn brown.
Instability of Vitamin C limits the forms in which it can be used to achieve effective results.
So there we have it, for a healthy, radiant and youthful glow, get ready to get your C on!
Fiona Tuck is managing director of Skinstitut, visit http://www.skinstitut.com/